Frequently asked questions

Succulents are usually known as some of the plants that are easiest to take care of. They don't need as much water because that H2O is stored in the modified leaves, making them firm and fleshy. However, succulents can be finnicky if they are not in the correct conditions. Each succulent species requires a different environment. Some thrive in the ourdoors, and some prefer the shade. I would say most prefer outside (in Texas) with no harsh light but for at least 6-8 hours a day. Depending on the size of the pot and the type of soil, the amount it should be watered varies. BUT, soil is where it begins. Aerated soil with lots of perlite or sand for large pore space is necessary. The smaller the pot, usually the more frequent you'll need to water them, but make sure the soil has great drainage. Buy cactus soil at your local nursery–we've got it at SOG!–or make your own using more sand and pebbles for drainage. When choosing a pot, try to get one with a hole in the bottom! I almost always try to stay away from pots with no drainage. If a succulent is yellowing, it is being overwatered. Let it dry out a little longer. If it is shriveling or browning, it's thirsty! (This goes for almost all plants) Cacti or succulent fertilizer is also helpful if the instructions are followed. Also, a lot of the succlents that grow more vertically with leaves spread out, you might start to notice dropped leaves at the bottom overtime. That's pretty common, and means it can only produce so much nutrients for the plant and wants the actively growing site to survive. It's hungry for the sun!!! Even if it's in a sunny spot. You have a couple of options. You can carefully propagate (see my propagation FAQ) the top of the succlent with the top section that is thriving. Use clean shears to cut this off and place in a dry location with air contact and no water. Let it callus over, which takes a day or two, then place in soil where it is watered frequently, but not drenched I use a mister with small recently-propagated plants every day. You can also peel off the completely healthy leaves and throw them in some soil! They will also callus over and grow roots on their own, and once they create green shoots, mist those roots also under covered soil. Don't be discouraged if your green thumb isn't green for these little guys. I can't tell you how many succulents I've killed! Start small and focus on a few at a time and learn what kind of conditions they like. You got it!

Propagation is simply "the action of widely spreading and promoting." According to my plant propagation class at Texas A&M, it is defined as "the purposeful act of reproducing plants." Another definition that might shed some lit is the term totipotency. This is the concept that a single plant cell has the necessary genetic factors to reproduce all the characteristics of the plant. Propagation from any plant can occur from a cell itself and create a clone, but that takes extensive amounts of time and is not how nurseries effectively make new plants. Propagation can start from cell or part of a plant tissue and put into a solution in a lab (tissue culture)—these are more for specific scientific purposes. Propagation can also start from a plant organ such as the leaf, leaf and petiole (stem-like thing attached to most leaves), stem and modified stems, and root. There are specific ways to do this and specific part of the plants, and for some propagation you have to consider plant hormones—yes! even plants have hormones (some you can buy synthetically). The part of the plant and species both affect the success of the propagated plant. Hormones are usually used to propagated plant organs, but plants such as honeysuckle, succulents, sanseviera, coleus, and more, usually still grow well without them. Fun fact—if you propagate a plant like sanseviera or honeysuckle, cut off the top of the shoot with clean shears, and it will root faster than if you try to propagate the middle or lower part of the plant because of a plant hormone called auxin!

Annuals mean that the plant will not grow back the next year—perennials will come back every year if they're taken care of! Annuals are usually herbaceous plants that can't survive the winter cold, but can be fun to experiment landscpaing with by mixing it up every year. Perennials are the homies of the plants that can be herbaceous or woody and produce vegetative growth and flower again if you keep showing them some love. Something about their roots genetically can take winters more easily. Also, the more established they become in your yard, the less care they require! There are also biennial plants! These plants require two growing season before reaching maturity. Biennial plants are cold crops, such as cabbage, kale, swiss chard, beets, onions, brussel sprouts, radishes, broccoli, carrots, turnips, and more. But make sure to harvest these crops before they produce flowers in their second year—this flowering is called bolting—and will give the veggies a sour nasty taste. Avoid that for your garden salad.